I was re-organizing all my tabs on my new blog layout and whilst linking up all my posts under the ‘Wanderlust’ section, I realized that I never blogged about the Cesky and Prague leg of my Europe trip in 2010 !
Which is, honestly, sacrilegious because it was so much fun. Crazy, crazy fun.
One of my biggest regrets during the trip was not bringing my charger because my camera died on me halfway through Prague and I didn’t manage to get any good photos of their beautiful Gothic churches (Did you know, Good King Wenceslas is from Prague?)
Anyway here goes – I’m sure I’ve forgotten a lot of things but I’m putting them down here for posterity.
Some things that made our short getaway painful while we were there but utterly memorable
- It was cold. We packed for summer. It was 13 degrees. Nuff said.
- It was wet. We had one umbrella between the three of us. Nuff said.
- We are all enablers. We drank and ate freely. We made stupid decisions and supported all stupid decisions made
We started off to Cesky one very wet Viennese morning.
Cesky Krumlov, to give you some background, is an untouched little Bohemian city in the Czech Republic, and a three hour van ride from Vienna, Austria.
The journey began unassumingly, besides the fact that we were already sopping wet from getting caught in the rain. The scenery was beautiful enough to keep us distracted whilst we dried off in the van.
The beautiful but slightly wild Transylvanian countryside. Everything about the Czech Republic would turn out to be just that – beautiful, exotic, wild, and slightly dark.
After random naps and curious daydreams as well as passionate discussions about whether we were about to be abducted by our Romanian driver (hired by C), we reached in three pieces to the cobble-stoned piece of Bohemia which will be referred to henceforth as Cesky.
The first thing I noticed was the cold. It was about 13-14 degrees, which was pleasant enough as I had worn my velvet sports jacket and tights. But it was matched also with a bitterly cold wind that made it feel more like 8-9 degrees despite the sparkling sunshine.
So after rambling around the quaint streets for about 40 minutes, we found our home for the next two days or so.
Is that pyschedelic or what ! It was exactly out of a bad horror movie ! You know, the youth hostels the dumb blondes check into before they meet some dumb dudes at night and they go drinking and stumble into the haunted streets?
Our story was not so different, but wait for it.
Our ground floor apartment at Krumlov House was actually rather lovely. It was very woody and very rustic, but clean.
My only grouse was the toilet – it was clean, no doubt, but the lighting was horror film standard – I don’t know about you, but I can’t ‘go’ unless I”m in a brightly lit sparkly white toilet. ‘Country-style’ toilets don’t cut it.
The walls were also painted with murals – it was all very Transylvanian village x Babushka.
Our very own Babushka demonstrates :
Since it was our first day, we decided to stick to exploring the town, leaving the iconic Byzantinian Cesky Krumlov Castle and its Baroque Gardens for the next day.
View from the hill – see what I mean about being trapped in time? Even the Czechs still wear their traditional costumes.
The streets are equally quaint, but interspersed with sudden flashes of modernity that I suspect might be linked to the fact that the city is actually a Unesco heritage centre !
From cobblestone quaint :
And slightly gothic shophouses:
To cheeky modern art!
Then lil Ms C got her pinched-face hunger pangs and we snacked on their delicious freshly made pretzel pastries , aka Trdelnik.
The Cinnamon Almond ones were the best in my opinion! They twirl the dough around a long wooden pole which is then baked in an open oven. The smell of the piping hot pastries was completely irresistible !
Dinner that day was at Na Louzie, a family run hotel and pub that has been up and running since as early as 1945 !
They serve traditional Czech favourites and pub food, as well as an excellent range of beers and Czech drinks (The famous Eggenberg boutique brewery is also in Cesky Krumlov)
I had the Zon Citron because I simply cannot resist fizzy lemony soda
Whilst the other two guzzled their favourite poison – Czech beer (I completely blame them for the fact that every time we travelled together in Europe, we would inevitable be half drunk for most of the day. It made everything and everyone seem happier and more fuzzy and funny so I’m not complaining)
According to them, the beer was very fresh and very easy to drink, with a good malty taste and look at those foamy beer heads ! So different from the half flat lager we get in bars normally.
The excellent Roast Pork, Potato Dumplings, and Red Cabbage
Potato dumplings are their staple foods. I thought I would like it immediately but for me it was quite an acquired taste because I didn’t enjoy the slightly bready texture of the dumplings. Once the dumplings soak in the yummy brown gravy though, and get spooned into your mouth with some of that smoky pork, its a different story altogether.
And the super yummy Cesky specialty,
Fried Carp and potatoes with a butter sauce!
I had a lot of apprehension about eating carp because I’ve always considered the fish species a pet rather than a meal, but I needn’t have had those reservations. The fish was crispy on the outside, white, soft, and succulent on the inside, and heaven with the buttery sauce.
This concludes my first post on Cesky ! If you are ever there (and you should go!) have a meal at this institution !
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic